Day 15:Hanoi Hanoi has the worst traffic I have ever seen. At all hours of the day and night the swarms of motor bikes is relentless. There is a special walk you have to do to cross the street - step off the curb and walk across very slowly so the bikes can move around you. In spite of the traffic I have not seen one accident.
Grounds of an old temple library complex
Imagine the sound of hundreds of motor bikes all blowing their horns
Imagine the opportunity for pickpockets to grab cameras and bags
Our hotel is quite nice - we have a big second floor room facing the street. Last night Jud took me to one of his favorite restaurants – Cha Ca Va Vong that serves only one dish - a fish dish that comes with greens and noodles - cooked at your table on a charcoal hot pot. It was wonderful......but it may have been the cause of current need to carry toilet paper with me. This too will pass. After dinner we walked around and stopped at the Sofitel - a five star French hotel with a wonderful garden bar. We had a drink and talked about the day.
Our Hanoi hotel - second floor front
Street (or parking lot) in front of our hotel
The sidewalks become parking lots - you walk down the streets
Then we took an evening walk around Hanoi, which included a walk past the “Hanoi Hilton” - the infamous prison where John McCain spent six years.
The remaining wall of the old Hanoi Hilton prison. The rest of the area has become the new five star Hilton Hotel of Hanoi
Day 16: Hanoi After breakfast at the hotel, we went for a power walk (Jud is a very fast walker). A light rain and the traffic made for an interesting, if treacherous, walk.The remainder of the day was spent in the markets looking for a rain jacket - my fleece jacket (made in Vietnam) serves as a sponge in the rain -- nothing in Hanoi is big enough! Serious diet time when I return to NH.
Jud and I had another special dinner tonight. One meal is better then the last. We stopped by a photography gallery with the photographer there showing his work. He is one of the best photographers (black and white) I've seen in Asia.A return visit the following day to buy a couple pieces of his work.
Hanoi photographer in his gallery
The rain has continued all day - a little more after dinner then it was back to the hotel to dry out and watch the news (CNN and BBC) to see what's happening in the world - looks like the stock market is crashing. It's interesting that many people in Hanoi have never heard of George W. Bush....but they like the US. After asking where are you from they all smile when we respond USA. Day 17:Hanoi It's a cold, gray, rainy day in Hanoi. Jud and I went to the Vietnam Museum of Ethnology. It's a museum that shows people, clothing, homes and tools of the various ethnic groups in Southeast Asia - very complex.
Tet is coming (the Lunar New Year) in mid February so a lot of markets are selling items to celebrate the event - everything is red and gold. I came across a woman burning copies of US $100 bills in the hope that it would bring good luck in the New Year.
Money to burn
Motor bike delivery - imagine getting a truck through the street
Day 18: Hanoi The weather continues to be cloudy and cool. Tomorrow we head off for Ha Long Bay for a two night stay - that may be cancelled if the predicted rain comes.
Today my big even was to take a cyclo - basically a seat in front of a guy on a bike. The traffic in Hanoi has to be seen to be believed - so the new video camera got its workout trying to record the street traffic.
In my walk around today it was interesting to see the streets that specialize in one product - for example a street with nothing but sunglasses, another with all Tet holiday decorations. I return to the US just before Tet so I will miss (gladly) the big events when everyone celebrates for seven days and many of the shops close down.
Poster celebrating the downing of a US plane during the "American War"
Tet decorations
A woman rides up on her bike with a bunch of vases - instant shop
A man dumps a load of used clothing on the sidewalk -- instant shop
Day 19: Hanoi to Ha Long Bay and Cat Ba Months ago it sounded like a good idea. Jud booked a side trip from Hanoi to an island on the Ha Long Bay - unfortunately, it's cold and rainy. We took off anyway first by bus for 3 hours, then a large boat for 3 hours then a small boat for a rough 15 minutes. The small boat had to be used because the tide was out and the larger boat could not dock. The small boat was nothing more then a large row boat with a motor - they packed 10 of us onto it. When the small boat "docked" it was to a pile of rocks on the shore - and a 15 foot climb to the road - imagine doing this while holding on to your luggage - I did it on my hands and knees.
Jud waiting for the ferry
Ferry boats lined up waiting for their passengers
The ferry in Ha Long Bay ready to dock
The ferry has docked and it time to see the island sites
We then waited to be picked up (in the rain) by the bus that never came. Finally, a van came and took us on a 15 mile ride (horn blasting at every turn) to the hotel. the hotel was quite nice. We were originally booked for four nights but we have cut it down to two. After insisting, the hotel staff finally turned on the heat and brought blankets....then, of course, it was too hot......it's all part of the experience.
Jud Davis -- a real world traveler
Monte Clinton in a frozen lump
to continue, go to Asia 2008 and click on Vietnam 3